Menswear SS 2024

Oct 21

Constructing identity

The Spring-Summer 2024 shows explored the wide range of possibilities of what it means to construct identity. How to translate today’s uncertain times into garments and give the wearer confidence and freedom to express themselves and emphasise their uniqueness and personality. Finding the right balance between sustainability, comfort, function and newness while honouring the human being and the body that is dressed.

For this report, OvN has found inspiration in the representation of male figures in art and how these reflect different perspectives of identities and culture. The landscape of masculinity is being questioned and re-mapped through colour use, fluidity of the materials and by deconstructing traditional patterns and mixing up references.

Portraits by Alice Neel

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Assemblage

Utility is combined with classic menswear and outdoor details, cutting and pasting and joining elements together. Sportswear colour blocking and striping are mixed with dark tones and camel to create a dynamic effect. Historical and sportive elements are referenced, such as motocross, diving and track & field. The masculine and the feminine are combined in a more flamboyant sampled version of sports and casual wear.

Left to right, Dries van Noten, J.W. Anderson, J.W. Anderson, Reese Cooper, Kolor, Kolor

Sculpture, Aletas by Francisco Leiro

Traces

Elements and prints show traces of people’s paths in life, woven or printed abstract motives reference dynamic movement. The shapes are simple and covered in print or layered to combine different textures and patterns. Two-piece or overall pieces create a strong look that references workwear. Elements are blended together creating frresh directions and pathways.

Left to right, Xuly.Bët, Burberry, Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, MSGM, Marcelo Burlon County of Milan, Bluemarble

Painting Castigo by Pedro Neves

Distress & rebuild

Perfection is boring, nothing is perfect. Faded colours and distressed materials represent breaking something down, destroying it and seeing what can be created from the pieces. The effects of de-colouring create depth and accentuate shape while it fades out strict divides. Worn, used and second-hand clothes have character and show traces of life. The colours are inspired by the grey effect of fading black dye, sanded structures and materials that are bleached by the sun.

Left to right, Heron Preston, Diesel, A Cold Wall, Fendi, Yohji Yamamoto, Natasha Zinko

Sculpture, Body of the Gaze, Accumulation by Shigeo Toya

Future Wear

Functional clothes that combine hi-tech fabrics with comfort are looking the future in the eye. Mono-material outfits can easily be returned to the circular system and recycled. A transition towards a data-driven future where waste is no longer an option. Imagine living on another planet, what systems would be in place to organize life? Colours are neutral non-colours or bright yellow and blue.

Left to right, Gucci, Zegna, Bianca Saunders, Robyn Lynch, Zegna, Kiko Kostadinov

Artwork, LUV by LY

Construct

To move from history to the future, classic shapes and patterns are reworked and reconstructed, Cutting shapes up, layering them or elongating parts to create a dramatic effect. Edges are raw and fringed, the inside is shown to make the construction visible. Playing with the strict rules of dressing up and combining them with freedom and creativity in tonal black and white colours mixed with in between greys.

Left to right, Off-White, Ernest W. Baker, Daniel W. Fletcher, Kiko Kostadinov, Dries Van Noten, Egonlab

Painting, People Come First by Alice Neel

Utility Through Durability

Practical utility wear to use every day, well-made clothes for performance. Flexible outfits that combine function and elegance for multi-use clothes; to travel, to bike, but don't look like outdoor clothes. These clothes are for performance and are well-made from durable materials that last. Coats play an essential role here, made of natural materials with non-toxic coatings for everyday use. Creating a space somewhere in between, making casual wear look more elegant, and giving elegance a more casual allure.

Left to right, Fendi, Reese Cooper, Miu Miu, Tod’s, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, Craig Green

Sculpture by Daniel Silver

Softness

Soft expressions with loose silhouettes in crispy materials made in light colours for a comfortable and fluid silhouette. Colours play an essential role; the palette is soft and delicate, and the shades paint a softness that feels fresh and relevant. A new modernity that is less strict, that blends a tuxedo jacket with a mesh t-shirt and where cargo pants can be made out of light shiny material.

Left to right, Lanvin, Paul Smith, Jil Sander, Ami, Paul Smith, Versace

Painting, Gabe by Sarah Ball