Womenswear SS 2024

Oct 21

Human Perspectives

The womenswear shows for SS2024 show that our view of ourselves as individuals in the world and in society has changed. The pandemic has made people more aware of the need for connectedness, while also wanting to be seen as a unique individual. To dress as individuals, we must be self-aware and celebrate the qualities that make us unique. For this report, OvN connected artists with the overlapping stories of the fashion shows. These artist celebrate the human body and emphasize uniqueness in a simple, straightforward way.

Mono-type Dancing Figure II by Tunji Adeniyi-Jones

You can download the PDF version of the report here

Mixing Melange

Playful and patterned clothing that is driven by craftsmanship and tradition, techniques are mixed, woven and knits are layered and randomly blended together. These garments take a post-globalization look at the textile craft and its role in the modern world. Mixing influences, techniques and references while staying true to their origins. Celebrating life experiences, history, taken pathways and the people who have gone before us.

Left to right, Gucci, Xuly.Bet, Moravy, Collina Strada, Ashish, Isabel Marant

Handcarved wood and paint, A Reflection of Self by Sthenwja Luthuli

Fluidity

Light fabrics are draped fluidly around the body, emphasizing the space between the body and the cloth. Volume is created by draping, layering and by the application of big bows and flowers. The soft colours combined create a poetic feeling. The soft stretch of the light textiles makes the clothes comfortable enough to be seamlessly translated into sportswear.

Left to right, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Deveaux, Miu Miu, Acne Studios, Dries Van Noten, Dries Van Noten

Sculpture, Coupling by Gabriele Beveridge

Cut

Playing with the colours, proportions and classic details to create new exciting forms. Anti-fashion celebrates what great clothes are about, the cut, quality fabric and construction. Cutting classics into new silhouettes, reworking the shapes into dramatic newness.

Left to right, Loewe, Valentino, By Malene Birger,Melitta Baumeister, Monse, Rokh

Sculpture, Newz! And Its Shadow by Math Bass

Broken Structures

Perfection is boring, age shows interest and character. Collections showed loose threads, bleached surfaces and cracked paint, materials are reworked and damaged. The distressed and deconstructed surfaces are aged and wrinkled.

Left to right, Collina Strada, Balenciaga, Peter Do, Diesel, Acne Studios, R13

Painting, The Space Between by George Rouy

Utility

Details like zips, drawstrings and extra pockets add function to these garments. Attached or loose, every surface area of the body is examined if it has the possibility to add an extra function. Bomber details are combined with workwear ruggedness but translated into elegant durable functional textiles.

Left to right, Miu Miu, Miu Miu, Isabel Marant, Stella McCartney, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Sacai

Sculpture, Station XIII by Antony Gormley

Size Up

Voluminous shapes move loosely around the body, creating a dramatic effect. Coats and shorts are more than oversized, changing the silhouette. Pants are loose and flowy or worn with leggings the contrast is bigger and the size of the coat or shirt is emphasized even more. While the colours and materials are humble the shapes create a royal and luxurious effect.

Left to right, Hed Mayner, Hed Mayner, Burberry, Lafayette 148, Junya Watanabe, Junya Watanabe

Performance by Ola Maciejewska

Collage

Layered garments are built up like a collage, cutting and pasting fragments irregularly to form an interesting composition. Different colours and materials are used together such as sheer, knit, leather and jersey, everything is mixed and loosely put together. The freedom and playfulness make the effect feel spontaneous and fun.

Left to right, Ottolinger, Marni, Y/Project, Hermès, Burberry, Prabal Gurung

Collage by Chad Wys

Body Conscious

Parts of the body are highlighted by cut-outs or materials use and basic, bold colours are used to emphasize the body shape. The graphic shapes create a pattern on the body. When mixed with bright colours the effect becomes playful, the colours break the tension of the lines.

Left to right, Dion Lee, Off-White, Alexander McQueen, Off-White, Fashion East- Standing Ground, Burberry

Visual by Khyati Trehan