Womenswear SS 2022

Celebrating the Return

Using fashion to tell the world who you are, seems to be the main point of the Spring-Summer 2022 fashion season. The fashion shows mark the return of not quite normal fashion shows that celebrate freedom, love, life, and colour. The shows are energetic and see all hybrids, worn by both men and women, adopting elements of male and feminine apparel and grooming. This is an interesting and potentially significant systemic change, one responding to cultural and social shifts, especially among younger generations. While reemerging after the pandemic in a changed way can lead to solving the problems of the fashion world, sustainability and changing the fashion calendar are there in the background. New dyeing techniques, recycled and deadstock materials and mushroom leather are used and consumerism is questioned by protesters that jump on the catwalk but the main message is; we are happy to be back.

You can download the PDF of the report here

*Dries van Noten, photographs by Rafael Pavarotti, movie by Albert Moya*

1/ Techno craft

There is an element of techno craft in the shows, seeing craft through a digital and textural lens. Layers of materials and textures are mixed with distorting textures and patterns, creating depth and movement, a vibrancy that is full of life. Textures and patterns are layered as well as garments like upcycled T-shirts, cargo trousers, bias-cut and draped midi skirts, swimwear, and corsets.

Left to right, Gabriela Hearst, Givenchy, Matty Bovan, SC103, Dries van Noten, Collina Strada, Chopova Lowena, Collina Strada, Matty Bovan, Collina Strada.

2/ Energizing

The colours have an acidic palette and are full of energy. Sportswear blends with soft, lightweight technological aspects. Lightweight nylon gives an airy, ballooning lightness to round-shaped drawstring anoraks. Garments are hybridized, taking space somewhere in-between the physical and the digital.

Left to right, Threeasfour, MSGM, Threeasfour, Cynthia Rowley, Tod’s, Tod’s, Massimo Giorgetti, Stella McCartney, AZFactory Tribute to Alber Elbaz, Isabel Marant.

3/ Statements

The shows have a “travelling through time” element to them. Aspects of the 80-ies and 90-ies are translated for future generations, dressing for 2050 in graphic futuristic colour statements. Simple shapes and silhouettes are elevated in bold colours.

Left to right, Vetements, Richard Quinn, Richard Quinn, Marge simpson by Balenciaga, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Roksanda, Balenciaga, Loewe, Shang Xia.

4/ The masculine

There are men's slouchy pants and jackets in the shows that have a late nineties vibe. The styles are oversized and comfortable, emphasizing the uniformity of a suit and the architectural scale of a broad-shouldered blazer. Combining sporty pieces and oversized shapes creates a new silhouette. Proportion plays a crucial role; balance is boring,  exaggerated volumes offers comfort for everyone.

Left to right, Ami, Miu Miu, Missoni, Balanciaga, Jil Sander, Stella McCartney, Rejina Pyo, Jil Sander, Balenciaga, Rejina Pyo.

5/ Soft clouds

We are out of our pyjama’s, but there is still a softer silhouette in the shows, for embracing a positive gentler future that is playful and fluid. The range of pastel tones creates a softer positive, and not so serious feeling. Loose fitted clothes and drapes move as we walk, as a cloud around us.

Left to right, Paul & Joe, Mark Fast, Jil Sander, Lutz Huelle, Colinda Strada, Rodarte, Emporio Armani, Stella McCartney, Casablanca, Loewe.

6/ New neutrality

Also the neutral tones are mixed with soft colours and bright accents. Silhouettes are sporty and lively for clothes to move in, to bike, dance and relax. The neutral tones give the clothes a sense of calm, nature and longevity that is seasonless.

Left to right, Tod’s, Sportmax, Lacoste, Valentin Yudashkin, Sunnei, Rejina Pyo, Lacoste, Stella McCartney, Miu Miu, Lacoste.

7/ Craft textures

Craft such as creating textures and patterns through knitwear, crochet, embroidery, macrame and fringes is significant. Looks are layered in interesting textures that celebrate global craftsmanship. Knitwear is essential here; the softness of the knitted patterns is used in dresses, pants and bralette tops.

Left to right, Anna Sui, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Tod’s, Nili Lotan, Givenchy, Tod’s, Jonathan Simkhai, Jil Sander, AZ Factory Alber Elbaz tribute by Chloe, Rejina Pyo.

8/ Nostalgic allure

Historic 18th-century gowns are worn by those who want to; this is not gender-neutral; it celebrates who you are and to dress in a way that expresses your personality. Poetic, romantic softness can be a strength; volume and royal scale create grandeur, a play on history and set rules.

Left to right, Simone Rocha, Louis Vuitton, Huishan Zhang, Vivienne Westwood, Richard Quinn, Prabal Gurung, Yuhan Wang, Edward Crutchley, Simone Rocha, Halpern.

9/ Graphic lines

The shows also show a limited black and white colour palette to create strong silhouettes, a strong simplicity that celebrates gender-free power. It is a play with historically masculine and feminine shapes to create new silhouettes and dimensions.

Left to right, Maria McManus, Comme des Garçons, MM6 Maison Margiela, Jil Sander, RTA, Jonathan Simkhai, Nensi Dojaka, Harris Reed, MM6 Maison Margiela, Prada.

10/ The glow

The last thing we signalled about the SS shows is the luxury statement of metallics in neutral colours. Embellishments, gloss, aqua and bronze colours reflect our need for rich, shimmering textures. Luxury and wealth, next to sustainability, are essential future topics. Glitter and metallics still play a vital role in our lives; they remind us of shimmering water needed for survival.

Left to right, Brunello Cucinelli, Fendi, Loewe, Rick Owens, Rick Owens, Loro Piana, Alberta Ferretti, Lanvin, Lanvin, Alberta Ferretti.