Women’s Fall 2022

While the world was emerging from the Covid pandemic towards a transition phase, life started looking exciting again and people started to feel like dressing up. The Russian invasion of Ukraine changed these feelings of hope and optimism again. When the immediate future is devastating, uncertain and frightening it gives a mixed feeling to watch the fashion shows. Does fashion matter now, does all this talk about the metaverse matter now? It doesn’t.

The Fall 2022 Balangiaga show, originally about climate change, took on a whole different meaning, because of the crisis we are in. The vulnerable humans in the snow and the designer’s personal story as a refugee created a humane and powerful show of empathy.

The transformation towards a more sustainable world that was discussed during Covid has not taken place. The current mindset is translated through distortion and escapism, a time of chaos designed into clothes. Yet also the chaos feels decadent. Should designers design durable clothes accessible for everyone, create clothes that are revolting, making a statement? Or should they translate the times, address the feelings and explore what it means to live now in this current system?

According to Rick Owens “beauty can be one of the ways to maintain faith during times of heartbreak”. Human creativity and beauty is a joy to watch and be part of. Fashion is an expression of our times and the following is a summary of the main ideas, concepts and colours of the fashion shows for FW 2022.

You can download the PDF of the report here

De-construction

Classics are de-constructed and re-assembled in new ways. Masculine tailoring is softened by layers of fabric.

Left to right, Nehera, Ashlyn, Louis Vuitton, Sharon Wauchob, Yohji Yamamoto, Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, Victoria Beckham, Junya Watanabe.

Design Codes

Off White paid tribute to Virgil Abloh’s “Question Everything” ethos.

Timelessness

A modest and quiet way of being with long layers in neutrals and brown tones, hoods and capes, reminding of monks and knights.

Left to right, Co, MM6 Maison Margiela, Connor McKnight, Sharon Wauchob, Co, Brunello Cucinelli, No Sesso, Rochas.

Textile Heritage

Woven patterns with historic elements with a romantic, nostalgic feeling.

Left to right, Rokh, Dries van Noten, Louis Vuitton, Zimmermann, Isabel Marant, Marine Serre, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Chufy.

Animalistic

A more humble role for humans and a greater respect for the non-human world.

Left to right, J. Mendel, Erdem, Toga, Sunnei, Rick Owens, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Yuhan Wang, Dries van Noten.

Covered Warmth

A colour exploration in multiple tones of earthy ochres reds and browns. Layered use of colour and material to create warmth and texture.

Left to right, Eudon Choi, Chloé, Louis Vuitton, Tod’s, Prada, Central Saint Martins, Tod’s.

Colour Statement

The monochrome statement of pink by Valentino.

Additive Identity

Patchwork combinations, explorations of layering and new proportions and dimensions.

Left to right, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, Chloé, No Sesso, Dries van Noten, Louis Vuitton, Matty Bovan, Rave Review, Etro.

Digital Twin

Roksanda created a wearable NFT of a physical outfit.

Future Active

Abstract sports with bright colour block silhouettes, voluminous features and open structures.

Collaborations

Bringing together the best of two worlds. The Adidas X Gucci collaboration is breaking the codes of both high-fashion and sportswear.

Left to right, Supriya Lele, Off-White, Max Mara, Rick Owens, Takahiromiyashita The Soloist, Noir Kei Ninomiya, Victoria Beckham, Rokh.

Metallic Vision

Metallic and reflective surfaces in silver and in bright colours.

Left to right, Raf Simons, Rick Owens, Rochas, Acne Studios, Rick Owens, Rick Owens, Missoni, Rick Owens.