Menswear Spring 2022
Free Expressions
The Menswear Spring-Summer 2022 shows were still primarily digital, although some were hybrid. The focus was on comfort and conscious design, with collections in natural or recycled materials. On the other end of the spectrum were the collections that explored freedom, raves, expressiveness and the blur between what is real and if that even matters. The joy of creativity and creating shone through, collections were expressive and celebrated clothes and dressing up. “Why are we making this?” has been a driving question behind a lot of collections. While big changes will have to be made in the future, the question “Why” is a good place to start.
Outdoor Explorations
Lockdowns have only enforced our passion for time spent in nature, making it part of the pandemic survival kit. Being outdoors in nature is a source of inspiration for the men's collections with clothing that combines city life with the countryside. The collections contained refined versions of outdoor classics made in organic or recycled textiles. The colours are neutral tones, sandy and dry; the materials also have a dry, matte appearance. Prints are structures and checks. The silhouettes have large volumes, are layered, and have many functional pockets; this is clothing to live in.
Left to right, White Mountaineering, Hed Mayner, Children of the Discordance, White Mountaineering, Undercover, Hed Mayne, Paul Smith, Undercover, Dior Men, Hed Mayner
Extended Nature
Utilitarian garments inspired by wind, rain and the Earth for more technical activewear with a futuristic touch. Collections made from lightweight, natural and recycled high-quality materials. Transparency creates a layered and fluid effect. Layering is also important in the prints. It is all light; it does not become heavy and bulky. In addition to neutral shades, there are blue and green shades. Fashion and material use have a sensitive connection with nature. The designs reduce clothing to its purpose, all unnecessary elements have been removed.
Left to right, Juun.J, Arnar Már Jónsson, Children of the Discordance, YProject, YProject, Arnar Már Jónsson, OAMC, Dries Van Noten, Dries Van Noten, Lanvin, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake
Natural Sophistication
Simple, well-thought-out garments, presented in brown tones, have something refreshing, grounded and earthy. Jackets are reversible to make the clothing more versatile and durable. Fabrics are natural cotton, linen and flax for whole silhouettes in the same colour. The outfits focus on comfort, innovative details and finishes to arise interest in these earthy colour schemes.
Left to right, Ermenegildo Zegna, Ermenegildo Zegna, Children of the Discordance, Hermès, Kolor, Isabel Marant, Brioni, Hermès, Dries Van Noten, Burberry
Softness
Colours play an essential role in the menswear Spring 2021 collections. The soft and light colour combinations and nuances inspired by the lemon yellow of the morning sun to the lilac of twilight to the sky blue of a clear sky are eyecatching. These collections represent a longing for a dreamy, softer world, a hallucinative state. The clothing is soft and supple with round, low shoulders. There are uniform details but in soft, supple fabrics and loose proportions.
Left to right, Paul Smith, Hermès, Dior Men, Ermenegildo Zegna, Ermenegildo Zegna, Dries Van Noten, Courrèges, Jil Sander, Dior Men, Paul Smith
Re-compose
Combinations of vintage fabrics, upcycled materials and patchwork are used for creative individual statements and expressions. The patchwork patterns can be abstract or figurative, mixing different re-used textiles with handpainted or embroidered details. The combinations of the materials, colours, fabric and colours break with the rules. This inclusive clothing goes beyond stereotypes.
Left to right, Kidsuper, Ahluwalia, Isabel Marant, Kolor, Bethany Williams, Children of the Discordance, Kolor, Kidsuper, Louis Vuitton, Children of the Discordance
Nostalgic Chic
There is a joy in nostalgia, looking back at times when life was simpler. The men's fashion shows featured references from the 1970s with flared trousers, sensual (white) suits and geometric patterns, all inspired by the cool elegance of Saturday Night Fever. The Foo Fighters disco album would be the perfect soundtrack.
Left to right, Prada, Ernest W. Baker, Casablanca, Casablanca, YProject, Casablanca, Bethany Williams, Ernest W. Baker, Prada, Paul Smith
The Power of Colour
Good design is often as simple as possible with a focus on the essentials, minimal yet super-expressive. We don't have an endless amount of resources at our disposal; good design makes the most of what we have and makes basic shapes more interesting. Working within constraints creates tension and strength. Working from a limited colour palette to create timeless pieces.
Left to right, Prada, Jil Sander, OAMC, Jil Sander, Jil Sander, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, Prada, Jil Sander, Isabel Marant, OAMC
Hybrid Worlds
What is the reality today? We live in a 2D world, is what you see on the internet real or is it animated or rendered? Collections showcase a 90s rave feel, with colourful, expressive, and gender-free aesthetics. Exciting, luminous colours and optical patterns play with your perception.
Left to right, Vetements, Louis Vuitton, Kidsuper, Loewe, JW Anderson, Lanvin, Dior Men, Louis Vuitton, Fumito Ganryu, Loewe
Bright Future
We need to be persistent optimists, although there is much to be worried about and to change. Fashion can express an optimistic attitude to create the world as you would like to see it. The bright rave colours, neon green, yellow and electric blue, pop out and seem to vibrate; outfits are clear and expressive; elements of culture and futuristic elements are mixed. There is an incredible tole of fashion to deconstruct the existing systems, break the boundaries, and be expressive.
Left to right, Etro, Dries van Noten, OAMC, Dries Van Noten, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Burberry, Louis Vuitton, Vetements, Louis Vuitton
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