Womenswear SS 2026
Blindness Esfera Azul by Javier Martin
Extensions of Identity
This season’s influences shift the focus from gendered expectations to the person, asking deeper questions about identity. They offer a reimagined view of how concepts of gender and identity have been shaped historically, merging personal experience with collective memory. The result is a reinterpretation forged through both past and future, blending retro-futurism with today’s and historical references to form a time capsule of our current moment.
Clothing is an external extension rather than a definition of the self, shaping how we present and experience our identities. Each piece adds a layer of meaning, reflecting the multifaceted nature of who we are while offering the freedom to reshape and redefine. This approach honours the fluid, evolving nature of identity, offering space for people to explore and express their complexity.
This season, both menswear and womenswear collections emphasize the evolving nature of identity and the role of clothing in expressing that evolution. Boundaries between identities, the natural and artificial, the historic and futuristic, and the familiar and experimental, are continuously being redrawn. Womenswear leans more into cultural complexity and the role of memory, while menswear embraces resilience, creativity, and experimentation through material and form.
The first four directions directly connect to the Vision 2026 Colour Update. The following seven directions are zoomed-in influences that explore tailoring, nostalgia, macro materials, and colour expressions.
Versatility is key, celebrating individuality and freedom, without rigid norms or expectations. The directions invite us to explore our evolving identities, making each garment more than fabric, it becomes a tool for shaping, transforming, and expressing who we are in an ever-changing world.
You can download the PDF here
Techno-natural Symbiosis
Techno-natural Symbiosis embodies a natural feeling, seamlessly integrating city life and technology with the organic beauty of greens. By fostering connections between humans and nature, cities are transformed into a more pleasant place to be. As we adapt to this evolving landscape, we learn to cultivate a more balanced existence where human evolution is guided by harmony with the natural world.
Left to right, Gabriela Hearst, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Kolor, Tod’s, Ulla Johnson, Dries van Noten, Charlie Constantinou, Sea, Burberry, Co
Fluid Heritage
The Fluid Heritage direction is shaped by a bright collage of sports influences, using emblems and varsity stripes that evoke a sense of nostalgia. By pmixing references of clubs and subcultures, it intertwines with both personal and collective memories. This blend of past and future shapes a distinct and fluid sense of self, celebrating the richness of diverse identities, activities and expressions.
Left to right, Ganni, Miu Miu, Vaquera, Casablanca, Mains, Lacoste, Conner Ives, Sunnei, Mains, Gabriela Hearst
Polymorphic
The concept of polymorphic captures the softness and elegance inherent in the art of dance, especialy ballet. The special interplay of colour, soft colours that are not pastels, adds a poetic dimension, evoking feelings of lightness. Layers of sheer materials mimic the movements of dancers, creating a visual effect of movement.
Left to right, Dries van Noten, Ferragamo, Jil Sander, Loewe, All-In, Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, Erdem, Zomer, Chloé, Christian Wijnants
The Idea of Permanence
An exploration of solids and fluidity by blending 2D and 3D forms, shape and material to create optical illusions. The ethereal qualities of clouds and movement inspire experimental techniques and constructions that push the limits of material. Inspired by VR aesthetics and effects in video games depth and interactivity are added to the garments. By weaving in mythical elements, this work invites viewers to experience a dynamic dialogue between the tangible and the fantastical.
Left to right, Sportmax, Alainpaul, Kate Barton, Anrealage, Courrèges, Jil Sander, Jil Sander, Junya Watanabe, Caroline Hu, Kiko Kostadinov
Tailored Transformations
Tailored Transformations reimagines classic tailoring elements through an avant-garde lens, pushing the boundaries of traditional design. Utilizing techniques like cut, decoupage, and collage, this approach plays with proportions, challenging conventional silhouettes. The interplay of construction and deconstruction is distorting the eye and redefining the concept of fit and construction.
Left to right, Yohji Yamamoto, Lutz Huelle, Sacai, Loutre at Fashion East, All-in, Stella McCartney, Victoria Beckham, Issey Miyake, Rokh, Hodakova
Power Redefined
The wide range of suits, worn with white shirts and ties evoke a sense of control and feminine strength. Paired with loose, wide-shouldered trenchcoats for a full “going to the office” look. Inspired by the late eighties and early nineties, these pieces embrace tailored shapes in fluid fabrics that exude power and control.
Left to right, Stella McCartney, Fear of God, Saint Laurent, Emilia Wickstead, Saint Laurent, Stella McCartney, Erdem, Bevza, Lemaire, Saint Laurent
Legends
A mix of history and imagination brings to life a world of heroes and maidens, with costume elements inspired by historic movies. Chainmail-inspired dresses and tops, lace, and corsets evoke the strength and elegance of the past. Big, full skirts or small balloon shapes take center stage, while hip-enhancing panniers, worn under voluminous skirts in the 1800s, add dramatic structure. Historical references and fantasy add a layer of transformation to life, reshaping reality with a sense of bold, theatrical elegance.
Left to right, Gabriela Hearst, Burberry, Ann Demeulemeester, Marine Serre, Marques’Almeida, Alexander McQueen, Rokh, Ganni, Vaquera, Ann Demeulemeester
Nostalgic Tomorrow
Drawing inspiration from the 1920s to the 1960s, this style redefines grace for today’s world. The twin-set, lace, and a variety of skirt lengths, from mini to maxi, bring a sense of timeless sophistication. A refined yet modern aesthetic, its blend of nostalgic elegance, futuristic details, and modern styling creates a polished look in a world that seeks both familiarity, a touch of irony and newness.
Left to right, Acne Studio, Richard Quinn, Prada, Michael Kors Collection, Tanner Fletcher, Prada, Celine, Valentino, Jil Sander, Emilia Wickstead
Denim Evolutions
As denim evolves, it seamlessly transitions from casual wear to sophisticated styles. Wide, shaped, and deformed, this fluid denim dramatically alters the silhouette of the legs and hips. Crafted from large amounts of textile, it drapes and flows, offering a soft mid-blue hue that feels both fresh and timeless. While traditionally made from cotton, denim can also incorporate other yarns, such as linen, enhancing its versatility.
Left to right, Niccolò Pasqualetti, Bottega Veneta, Acne Studios, Gabriela Hearst, Monse, Alaïa, Sunnei, Marques’Almeida
Tactile Focus
The interplay of texture and techniques in crochet, rope, and innovative cellulose-based fur showcases ingenious craft skills mixed with material innovation. Used on a large scale, the materials invite touch, emphasizing their details and transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary. By celebrating these techniques, we not only emphasize the beauty of craftsmanship but also preserve the invaluable artisan skills.
Left to right, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Christian Wijnants, Acne Studios, Marco Rambaldi, Sacai, Pronounce, Bottega Veneta, Prabal Gurung, Chanel, Rachel Comey
In this direction the colours shift from warm yellows and oranges to deep teals and petrols. Patterns and effects mimic the vibrant hues of butterfly wings and sunsets. Enlarged details like feather patterns and insect-like textures reveal the delicate wonders of nature up close. This multi-faceted world blurs the lines between natural and artificial, transforming fragile elements into mesmerizing forms.
Left to right, Gabriela Hearst, Isabel Marant, Bottega Veneta, Roksanda, Roberto Cavalli, Roberto Cavalli, Saint Laurent, Shuting Qiu, Paolina Russo, Peter Do
You can download the PDF here