Womenswear FW 2024

Mar 14

Second Skin

Fashion is changing, and so is the role fashion plays in society and our lives. Our clothes are like our second skin as they are in close contact with our body, creating an intimate and tactile experience. Just as our body and skin reflect our physical identity, our clothes reflect our personality and style, allowing us to express ourselves in unique and creative ways. The fabrics, colours, and patterns we choose reflect our moods and emotions and even our values, making clothing an important aspect of our daily lives.

Womenswear FW 2024 shows the importance of expressing identity through clothes and how garments enable people to express their individual humanity. This can foster a more inclusive and empathetic society where people respect and celebrate each other's differences.

In this report, OvN has paired seven directions in women’s wear with artworks that address fashion, clothes and the female body.

“Let people recognize their own identity and find their individual humanity.”

Download the PDF of the report here

Translucent

Translucent materials allow light to pass through in a delicate, subtle, and elegant manner. It creates a sense of lightness and airiness. The translucent materials add an element of mystery or intrigue to a design, as they allow glimpses of what is behind the surface. Sheer layers are confident and feminine and exude a powerful presence while being soft and delicate.

Left to right, Proenza Schouler, Dries Van Noten, Alexander Wang, Feben, YProject, Missoni, That Disappears Installation by Ting Gong

Textile texture

Different textile techniques are mixed to create interesting new textures. Patchwork in multiple materials and effects are layered creating a 3D effect. The patterns are fluid, creating a spontaneous, loose effect. The combination of different textile techniques demonstrates the freedom and creativity to experiment and innovate.

Left to right, Feed by Yan Miller, Maisie Wilen, Mame Kurogouchi, Bode, Shuting Qiu, Tanner Fletcher, Eckhaus Latta

Outdoor re-thought

The innovative use of layers and new proportions elevates and creates a modern interpretation of traditional outerwear. Parka’s and trenchcoat elements are reworked to create a modern take on the classic silhouettes. Rethinking outdoor clothing for urban use to ensure that garments are both stylish and functional. Fake fur accents are added to enhance warmth and comfort while also adding a touch of animalistic luxury into the mix.

Left to right, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Melitta Baumeister, A.W.A.K.E. Mode, Adeam, Sacai, Patchwork by Junya Watanabe

Cut

The history of tailoring is steeped in tradition and skill, and mastering the art of pattern cutting and skilful seam placement is crucial to understanding what design is all about. Pattern cutting and the art of tailoring allow designers to create precise shapes and sharp silhouettes. Luxurious classic textiles are used to elevate the garment. By cutting up fabrics and playing with unconventional tailoring, designers are creating something new and modern.

Left to right, R13, Mugler, Ashlyn, Carolina Herrera, JW Anderson, Ashlyn, Pattern by Martin Margiela

Lace

Delicate lace is used in new contexts and new applications that push the boundaries of its traditional use. The romantic association gives it a historical reference, but it is used in a modern way. The lightness and elegance make it special and festive. Lace is gender-free and used in feminine tops, as skirts worn over a pair of trousers as well as casual patchwork techniques.

Left to right, Trastornos del Sueño by Claudia Casarino, Jason Wu, Sea, Bode, Zimmermann, Ulla Johnson, Isabel Marant

Multi check

Checks have played an important social role in culture, symbolizing everything from aristocratic lineage to rebellious counterculture. Designers are playing with checks, combining different patterns and sizes to create something new and unexpected, exploring the optical effects that can be achieved through interesting placements. Broad shoulders are accentuated, and the optical effect of the checks creates depth, adding an extra dimension.

Left to right, Arched Figure by Louise Bourgeois, Stella McCartney, Balenciaga, Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, Jil Sander, Maison Margiela, Adeam

Power

The symbolism of female empowerment is expressed through the use of black, which represents resilience and independence. Black exudes sophistication and mystery and has long been associated with authority and strength. The volumes created in black textiles and different types of black tones add depth and complexity to the designs, making it almost armour-like and protective.

Left to right, Mame Kurogouchi, Magliano, Rolf Ekroth, Ferrari, Acne Studios, Vaquera, Moments Contained by Thomas J Price

Leather

Leather is often described as a second skin due to its durability and ability to mould to the wearer’s body over time. The use of leather is a topic of much debate when it comes to sustainability. While it is a natural material that has been used for clothing for thousands of years, the process of tanning leather is environmentally harmful. Yet leather can also be seen as a durable material that can last a long time with proper care. By using tanned-free dyeing methods it becomes a sustainable choice in the long run.

Left to right, Second Skin by Kyle Barnes, Brandon Maxwell, Brandon Maxwell, Isabel Marant, Proenza Schouler, Rag & Bone, Fendi