Womenswear Directions

Mar 28

Reflections

The evolving identities and roles of women, the nature of work, and our relationship nature and our material possessions are being re-evaluated and redefined. This introspective perspective challenges traditional narratives, asking us to consider what our choices say about our values, aspirations, and place in the world.

As the concept of womanhood becomes increasingly diverse, forming an identity through clothes reflects this complexity. This shift in understanding marks a departure from fashion as mere consumption towards a more conscious engagement with our wardrobes, where each piece is a deliberate choice that speaks to personal narratives and collective progress.

This prompts a critical examination and reflection on how we relate to the things we own, urging a move away from the disposable towards the enduring. The fabrics we choose, the crafts we support, and the styles we adopt have greater significance, acting as statements of our commitment to a more thoughtful and responsible way of living and how we relate to the world around us.

You can download the PDF here

Image, Mirror by Lise Vester

Lifelong learning

This direction combines academic pursuit and feminine advancement into an empowered look. Structured suits and pleated skirts are combined with tweed and college stripes. It redefines workplace attire and serves as a source of inspiration for women everywhere, championing progress and empowerment with every stitch.

Left to right, Ottolinger, Talia Byre, Tweed by Lanificio Moessmer, Plan C, Prada, Rachel Comey, Tommy Hilfiger, Schiaparelli, Climate wool textile by Somelos Tecidos, Tommy Hilfiger

Outdoor warmth

This direction approaches luxury outdoor clothes that are made for city living, with an emphasis on warmth, texture, and layering, embracing the tactility of big knits and brushed surfaces. By blending references from different eras and geographies, it melds style and utility into comfortable and timeless clothes. Craft and material knowledge are the foundational principles upon which these clothes are created. The fibres and innovative techniques not only create interest but also add sophistication.

Left to right, Alexander McQueen, textile by Silkytex Korea, Helmut Lang, Loewe, Uma Wang, Maiko Kurogouchi, Sacai, fabric by Sendyi Textile, Sea, Stella McCartney

Natural grace

A new elegance emerges, one that draws its inspiration from the beauty of the natural world. Through the use of the brown colours of the earth and the green shades of the forest, these garments bring the essence of the outdoors into sophisticated spheres. Draping is a central technique, softening the overall look with that ripples and folds like water emphasizing the body.

Left to right, Atlein, Banana tree fibre fabric by Green Whisper, Balmain, fabric by Koojoo, KNWLS, JW Anderson, Kiko Kostadinov, fabric by Cangioli 1859, Issey Miyake, JW Anderson

Sport statements

This innovative approach reimagines the essence of sports clothes, be it the aerodynamics of a ski suit, the precise elegance of a fencing kit, or a sleek langlauf outfit. Transforming them into abstract versions that combine function, energy into sleek silhouettes. The spirit of sport is translated in a sense of play and strength, inviting wearers to embody these qualities in their everyday lives.

Left to right, Kiko Kostadinov, Duran Lantink, fabric by Matias Aroujo, Anrealage, Stamm, Johanna Parv, multi-layer biopolymer by Flashine, Zomer, fabric by Ezgi Tekstil, Institut Français de la Mode

Sampled edits

A dynamic mix of reused fabrics, sports aesthetics and graphics mixed using different techniques to create patchworks as wearable collages of our times. This direction samples fragments from various cultures, weaving together textures, colours, and patterns into a narrative that celebrates authenticity. This blend of references and repurposed materials creates uniques stories of culture and what style means.

Left to right, Julia Sue Dotson, fabric by K. Line, Conner Ives, fabric by Mahlia Kent, Stella Jean, Mark Fast, Sportmax, fabric by Majocchi, Vetements, Soullland Copenhagen

Delicate layers

Delicate layers, playing with the lightness of sheer fabrics to create a visual symphony of colour and light. Layers of coloured clothes are draped to compose a moving colour composition on the body. This approach delicately balances transparency and opacity, allowing colours beneath to subtly interact, creating a living canvas on the wearer.

Left to right, Carven, fabric by Pisa Tekstil, Dries van Noten, textile by Koojoo Fabric, Gauchere, Proenza Schouler, Eudon Choi, fabric by Kowa, Roksanda, Kiko Kostadinov

Crafted lace

The craft of lace-making is undergoing a renaissance, used in new creative ways, elevating it from its ornamental past to new modern narratives. Lace, with its intricate patterns and ethereal quality, is ingeniously combined in patchwork compositions, combined with other transparent or fluffy materials. These modern creations are pushing boundaries, creating a new life for lace and lace-making.

Left to right, Yuhan Wang, Tianhai Lace, Marco Rambaldi, perforated leather by Delta Neo, Simone Rocha, Simone Rocha, Sea, Pasha Textile, Meryll Rogge, Preen

Elevated elegance

This direction marks the shift towards elegance and the principles of power and simplicity. This strength reflects a broader cultural shift in recognizing and celebrating the power of women. The minimalist approach to elegance is a counter-narrative to traditional expressions of femininity, proposing that true power lies in the essence of simplicity and the courage to present oneself authentically. The use of uni colours underscores this narrative, serving as a statement of confidence that elevates the wearer’s presence without the need for complexity.

Left to right, Acne Studios, fabric by Filasa, Stella McCartney, textile by CFM & RDD, Tom Ford, fabric by Sunwell, 16Arlington, Prabal Gurung, Tove, Concordia Textiles

Shifting surfaces

Tactile illusion in fabrics and pattern cutting creates three-dimensional effects, accentuating the contours and shapes of the garments and the depth of the fabric. The surfaces change appearance with movement and perspective, creating a dialogue between the garment and the environment. Through these textiles, a new aesthetic is born, marking a bold step toward a future that embraces greater expression and function in materials.